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Hi all,
I've started stripping my Mallard down as per the advice on here, and I'm following the video tutorial, however the cylinder support just seems to pop off when you remove the valve gear in the maintenance video.
Mines stuck fast. Am I doing something wrong?
Dear everybody,
I'm the owner of A3 Flying Scotsman leave steam (used) and faced the following issue. The Regulator Drive Rod has been somehow broken and "fixed" by soldering (see pictures).
Now the regulator seems working, servo and gears rotating, even the drive rod moving. But the steam valve not working, no steam flow and, of course, no train movement. Control LEDs at certain switch from green to red, then both light at the same time, which I also think is abnormal.
I would be grateful for any ideas on how to fix this.
Dear Chris (and hello to everybody!), first many thanks for your very clear instructions which is really of big help! I had to interrupt to have some free time and also wait for proper compressor.
I dismantled everything in front from steam regulator to pistons, washed with alchohol and checked the airflow, which was good. I didn't touch the cylinders/pistons. I also replaced the regulator drive rod, put the regulator to fully front position (means open fully).
What I got - when I deliver air directly to the regulator hole (video in this post) the mechanism starts moving, not very fast, but moving.
I even did this through the regulator valve (next post).
But when I assembled regulator, superheater back and provided airflow normal way (with adapter I got from OOLS) the mechanism just tried to move and then stuck (last video)
I have 2 ideas:
Some air/steam leakage from the superheater (but why)
Mechanism rotation is still difficult because of wheels and timing shaft contamination.
I would be grateful for further opinios and advices
Dmitry
My Golden Fleece wasn't working well, 4 coaches was all it could pull. Time for a microscopic look.
(When I do my maintenance I have the loco on a rig I have made which isolates the driving wheels from any road contact thereby negating any friction from wheel and rolling road. To do this I remove the loco body and the front of the loco is held on 2 pins in the front mounting holes and the tender is on some track for the power.)
I discovered the timing on Golden Fleece was very lumpy, and even adjusting the settings on the timing adjuster didn't improve the problem. So, looking further afield I thought the glad nuts were screwed in too much, a quarter turn was all that was required and voila! it can now pull 8 coaches with ease.
Fine adjustment on the rig I use is easy -…
The plastic support is held in place by a single slotted screw. If you have removed the screw and it is still stuck then it is only old oil holding it in place, acting like a bit like a glue. Tap or prize it free.