OOLS Club News
OO Live Steam Club
Supporting OO Live Steam and its Community
Good evening Gentlemen, its been a while and now i feel like getting back to the rebuild of my Mallard, the only thing is, i took off the original circuit board without noting positions of wires.......has anybody a wiring diagram of the said board??
Thanking you all in advance
John
Hi all
It’s been a long time but finally got to running my Silver Link on my home layout!!
Want to test run on my Hornby Rolling Road first but cannot remember what our sadly missed Maurice told me best to connect power to the rear of tender as over static use could create flat spots on the tender wheels.
Can someone send me a diagram or picture as to how this connection is made, I just cannot remember!! It will just save me messing about and maybe getting it wrong.
I’ve only ever run my Silver Link on the club test track.
I know it’s not proto typical but recently bought the beautiful rack of articulated coronation coaches c/w beaver tail unit.
Many many thanks, just didn’t want to mess it up
Happy Days, hope to see you at Gaydon
Hello,
I got a live steam Silver Link as a birthday present. The seller told me, that this loco was never in use. The problem is, that wheels can be turned only with a little bit of force. I stopped trying immediately, because I didn't want to bend the rods. I don't know what to do. How can I clean the inside of the cylinders, shall I steam it up to get rid of the old oil with hot steam? As I'm a beginner with live steam I don't even know, if I can turn the wheels by hand due to the regulator mechanism.
Here in Germany you can hardly find someone using these wonderful live steam locos. Too fiddly to use they say. I love filling it with water and oil, steam it up and let it go. I saw it only on YouTube.
Can someone please tell me…
Hello Norbert,
I suggest you take the body off as a first step - only two screws. It will help your understanding and hopefully remove the "fear" of what is inside and further dismantling the loco. You can then see what size tools you will need (very small screwdrivers) if you want to go further. It's much better seeing the real thing inside, rather than YouTube videos. If you do want to do more, then I suggest you buy the basic tools from the club shop - they are pretty much essential.
The old oil will have probably stuck the moving parts inside the steam system - they are the pistons inside the cylinders and the rotary valve at the front of the engine. The regulator should be OK as it is all metal. You might get lucky just running steam through, but the cylinder seals will probably need replacing anyway, just because of the time they have been in there. With the right tools and some practice it's only a 10 minute job.....30 minutes for a first time 😀
Good Luck,
David
Hello folks,
As the title states I have a Mallard locomotive that is not working properly. Specifically, the fireman side cylinder is not wanting to stroke constantly unlike the engineer side. I took the cylinder block off and determined the end caps are fine and the engineer piston is making a good seal. I noticed something was amuck when the model was not wanting to run on its rolling road during my club's last show. It will run if I pick it up and let the engine free wheel with no problems. What confuses me is the O rings look identical and the model was serviced less than a year ago by y'all's club. I have re-timed it but with the same results even on a level section of track. Any advice and or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Happy Railroading,
Camryn
There are 4 tiny O-rings between the rotary valve block and the cylinder "saddle" - are they all OK?
Are you able to blow out (with compressed air) the passageways both in the rotary valve block and the cylinder block ? The O-rings sit one on each of these passageways.
Ideally, you want to reach the stage that putting compressed air into the valve passageway on the front of the rotary valve block sees the piston move smartly one way and then repeat with the other hole for that cylinder and see the piston move the other way.
The passageways are 0.6mm diameter, so it doesn't take much to block one or just partially impede the flow of steam and that will ruin the loco's performance.
Hope this helps,
Good Luck,
David
Brilliant, thanks chaps, as always