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Airline boiler adaptor help?

I currently have the boiler airline adaptor from the clubs shop because I plan on tinkering with my mallards timing, but however I am confused on what type of air compressor I will need to use? Can anyone point me in the right direction like will any compressor work?

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David & Val
2 days ago

I use a cheap one from a spray painting kit - not perfect, but does the job. It must provide 2bar pressure (most spray painting ones will claim 4bar). Mine is a little short on flow rate, so won't run a model quite as fast as it will go on steam, but that doesn't matter for me to debug/fix locos on my bench.

David

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Wanted. Flying scotsman Loco body with crest on cab

Looking for a body for my double tender flying scotman. It decided to run of the edge of a layout during testing and the body had been damaged. My body still mostly intact. But the cracks can be seen through the paint work. Just want to make her look pristine again without the eye sore of the damage. I know it will be hard to find. But I can only hope

Im located in Australia too just incase

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jan_chris1
jan_chris1
23 hours ago

Hello Shannon, I can possibly help with your plight. In too am in Aus, Lithgow, NSW. Anyway, I have a standard FS body which I can sell you if you are prepared to modify it by buying the Crest transfer from Fox Transfers in the UK. The item number is FRH4375 LNER A3 Crest. Now the good thing is that the loco bodies are coloured plastic, so by using a glass fibre brush, you can erase the number on the cab side and apply the transfer, there is no deterioration of the cab side with using the brush. I have done this when building my Bittern double tender.

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Flying Scotsman as Preserved - Update #1

From my previous posting, I now have the smoke deflectors and the A3 which is 60043 Brown Jack. I was happy to buy the A3 even though a deflector is separate from the loco, its been named 'Lefty Brown Jack', it came with the loco so I can repair it. Actually this deflector shows me the mounting arrangement on its inside (which Hornby have modelled) which is a great asset, as the brass etches include the mounting bracket pieces. As for the double chimney, yes Hornby have modelled it as a separate item, but to remove it from the loco will damage it and the smokebox, so I am hoping my friend Stephen who can cast small brass items will be able to make a mould with it in situ and hopefully add a spigot on its underside which can fit directly into the OOLS Flying Scot.


'Lefty'! Brown Jack
'Lefty'! Brown Jack
Silver Tay Smoke Deflectors
Silver Tay Smoke Deflectors

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Quick Release Coupling

Chris Oakes uses one of these on his compressor in the tutorials. I have been trying to find a set on ebay without any luck, the Chinese sights don't seem to have them. Obviously I need 4mm barb ends to fit the tube onto. Can anyone point me to a supplier, please.

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This post is from a suggested group

Squeeling Controller, Why?

A few days ago I sent in a post on maintaining my DDE. After re-assembly I put it on test only to hear the squeel from the controller. Now squeeling usually only occurs when there is no loco on track or when it has run out of water. But this wasn't the case here. The only change I made to the loco was to put in a new wiper and its wires to the PCB. On close inspection to see if anything was amiss I noticed the motor wires were on their last strands so I re-soldered, but still no luck, it still squeeled. Hmmm, is the tender at fault? So I tested the tender coupling it up to my Seagull and everything worked, so the tender is ok. Then what has gone wrong πŸ₯Ά

If anyone can shed a light on this problem I would be very grateful.


An Odd Combination
An Odd Combination

218 Views

Can you explain your term "squealing" better please. Is this the high resistance/no loco/run out of water alarm or the 10kHz high pitch noise that results from the heater PWM ?

As Markus says - check the electrical path to the heaters. If you have a DVM, the loco and the tender should each separately be about 4 ohms. When connected together, the combination should be around 2 ohms.

David

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Regulator Motor Remaining on

Hello folks.

I am back again in need to assistance with a Mallard. For the past two days the loco has been running fine. Her low water sensor tripped and I went ahead and refilled its boiler. As soon as I put power back on the regulator motor kicked on and would not stop. The only time this would change is if I input a command. Upon inspection it looks like the wiper board needs to be replaced as it has warped and the red lead has an exposed section near the superheater. The gears, regulator linkage and everything else mechanically seem to be fine.

Thank you all for your help and have a good one.

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Loco Maintenance

DDE. It wasn't working too well even though I had replaced the cylinder o-rings. So I decided to strip it down into it's main components, give it a good clean and hopefully regain steam locomotion. Unfortunately it wasn't to be. After de-oiling everything, re-assembling and timing from scratch, it seemed to work ok with compressed air, but putting it onto the rolling road, all I got was a squeel from the controller. Ugh! What's gone wrong, I don't know. (Help is required here, please) I replaced the wiper assembly with a complete new one as the old wires had work hardened and one had broken away from the PCB. In stripping down the chassis, I put the screws back from where they came so as not to loose them, but also in putting each screw back into the hole they came from ensures they are compatible with its thread -…

Lots of Bits
Lots of Bits
Controlling the Screws
Controlling the Screws

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Flying Scotsman as Preserved

My last project was making Bittern Double Tender. My new project is going to be as above. To date I have bought a FS body off Ebay. I have on order a set of German style smoke deflectors which are a brass etch, so it should not be too much of an exercise to (ahem!) execute!

I have included a photo of FS which I am going to reproduce.


136 Views

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Some things shouldn't be there!

The other day I replaced the piston and gland o-rings on my DDE. An easy job and well worth doing. However I found more than I bargained for....

Not only was there the o-rings, but on one side was this extra thing! It was a metal ring within the gland nut. Amazing what some people do, see photo, the metal ring is the one on the right.

An Interloper
An Interloper

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