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There's always something new, eh! My number 96, Papyrus, has had a maintenance schedule performed and in doing so I decided to renew the wiper assembly. The old one had decidedly gone beyond its use by, the wires were brittle and the insulation was very 'ows your father. So, replacing was easy enough but when I connected the loco to power, both lights came on and remained on regardless of the position of the regulator. On inspection the soldering looked ok, there was no bleeding of solder onto the adjacent connection on the PCB. So next was to look at the business end and the wiper board, and here was the problem, the brass wiper had not been segmented so this created a closed circuit across the cab lights. Remediation was easy, using a new craft blade I gently cut across the wiper to create separation and this rectified theโ€ฆ

2 Cab Lights
2 Cab Lights
New Wiper without Segmentation
New Wiper without Segmentation
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David & Val
2 days ago

Interesting - never seen one like that before. At least it was a nice easy fix.

David

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Flying Scotsman as Preserved update #2

Well it has been a while with not much action, but now I can show you the cast brass double chimney. At present it is only sitting in situ on top of the smoke box so I need to create a spigot of some sort in which to secure it. I'm hoping to locate it the same way the single chimney attaches as I don't really want to cut into the top of the smoke box for any reason. I'm very pleased with the casting, comparing it to the A3 doner loco, it's spot on, so I am indebted to friend Stephen for creating this little gem. He tells me he cast 4 of them. I had a set of German deflectors but have used them on repairing the Hornby loco, Brown Jack, which had one deflector broken away, so I am waiting on another set from Silver Tay Modelsโ€ฆ

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Awakening a 21 year old!

No, it's not your son or daughter! I have bought an unused R2485 Flying Scotsman set, it's the one without the track and controllers. It's labelled 48/05, so everything is stuck solid. Wheels, pistons, electric motor. So I first removed the Walschaerts valve gear from each side enabling me to undo the gland nuts to remove the pistons. Everything needed a clean, I removed the o-rings from the pistons and after a massage with some steam oil I decided I would re-use them as they had not gone hard. re-assembly then followed. Next was the wheels, so removing one side only in turn, so as not to get confused with the quartering, I removed the opposite wheel with its axle giving it a good clean and oiling. On final assembly this showed everything was moving as it should, wheels and pistons. The motor and gearbox only required a slight oilingโ€ฆ

Operators Manual
Operators Manual
Optional Chimney's?
Optional Chimney's?

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LS CLUB SUMMER MEET 2026

A big thank you to Dave & Shelly for hosting this years Summer Meet ... I had a great afternoon meeting up with fellow members, discussing all things Live Steam

Dave's layout was looking great and performed faultlessly... allowing my A4 - Empire Of India - with a body greatly modified by Jack, to have a great extended run... the smooth run probably due to the recent service the loco had, by Chris Oakes ( thank you Chris)

Cheers

Joe

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Nick Beard

Arkwright

Summer holiday looming!!!

Yes folks,, the time for larking about with the family and grandkids has arrived,,,therefore,,,, the shop will be out of bounds to purchasing from this coming Saturday 1st August until the following Saturday 8th August While i attempt vacating these shores a bit!!!

You may browse of course but would kindly be advised to hold off purchasing until my returnโ€ฆ.! At least its not hospital this year like last!!!!


All the โ€˜summeryโ€™ best to you all as things start to warm up again for the 4th time this year!!!!!


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david.barge86david.barge86
david.barge86
19 days ago ยท posted in Technical

Bad running and controller cutout

Iโ€™ve had an issue develop on my A4 Mallard whereby the loco has had a significant degradation in performance to the extent it no longer runs. I place the loco on the track and in the process of warming the water the controller cutout kicks in with a loud beeping sound. Further more the rails are extremely hot to the point of melting the plastic sleepers. Iโ€™ve had a similar issue before which I fixed by replacing the tender wheels. Iโ€™ve experienced a couple of uncontrolled motor operation whereby the loco stops and then runs in reverse leading upto the issue. Any advice to fix the issue would be much appreciated.

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I would suspect the tender wheels again. The controller cut-out with warning sound is an indication of "high resistance". That can be from many things, but when you mention hot rails as well, then it points to high resistance in the tender wheel pick-up mechanism.

Do they all still turn freely?

Dirt = high resistance, so I would take the tender wheels out and clean the bearing surfaces - it's much easier if you have the club's tool for pushing the axles out of the wheels, then you can clean the axles as well. Reassembly requires a perfectly "square" push of the axles back in to the wheels, so a simple vice does the job nicely.

Hope this helps,

David

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Airline boiler adaptor help?

I currently have the boiler airline adaptor from the clubs shop because I plan on tinkering with my mallards timing, but however I am confused on what type of air compressor I will need to use? Can anyone point me in the right direction like will any compressor work?

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I use a cheap one from a spray painting kit - not perfect, but does the job. It must provide 2bar pressure (most spray painting ones will claim 4bar). Mine is a little short on flow rate, so won't run a model quite as fast as it will go on steam, but that doesn't matter for me to debug/fix locos on my bench.

David

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Wanted. Flying scotsman Loco body with crest on cab

Looking for a body for my double tender flying scotman. It decided to run of the edge of a layout during testing and the body had been damaged. My body still mostly intact. But the cracks can be seen through the paint work. Just want to make her look pristine again without the eye sore of the damage. I know it will be hard to find. But I can only hope

Im located in Australia too just incase

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Hello Shannon, I can possibly help with your plight. In too am in Aus, Lithgow, NSW. Anyway, I have a standard FS body which I can sell you if you are prepared to modify it by buying the Crest transfer from Fox Transfers in the UK. The item number is FRH4375 LNER A3 Crest. Now the good thing is that the loco bodies are coloured plastic, so by using a glass fibre brush, you can erase the number on the cab side and apply the transfer, there is no deterioration of the cab side with using the brush. I have done this when building my Bittern double tender.

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Flying Scotsman as Preserved - Update #1

From my previous posting, I now have the smoke deflectors and the A3 which is 60043 Brown Jack. I was happy to buy the A3 even though a deflector is separate from the loco, its been named 'Lefty Brown Jack', it came with the loco so I can repair it. Actually this deflector shows me the mounting arrangement on its inside (which Hornby have modelled) which is a great asset, as the brass etches include the mounting bracket pieces. As for the double chimney, yes Hornby have modelled it as a separate item, but to remove it from the loco will damage it and the smokebox, so I am hoping my friend Stephen who can cast small brass items will be able to make a mould with it in situ and hopefully add a spigot on its underside which can fit directly into the OOLS Flying Scot.


'Lefty'! Brown Jack
'Lefty'! Brown Jack
Silver Tay Smoke Deflectors
Silver Tay Smoke Deflectors

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