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Has anyone come across this problem: The replacement 3D printed cover has warped with heat. What temperature should this part of the loco withstand? What material is used? I have used these replacements on other locos with no problem, so what has changed here? Presumably they are there to insulate th
e pad from the tender draw bar in case of contact.
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Recently I decided to do some in depth maintenance on my locos, and it can be frightening to find things that need fixing. On removing the rotary valve cover on my Silver Link, which was actually running ok, I discovered the rotary valve had a deep concentric groove worn in it from the compression spring, the wear pad, what was left of it, served no purpose at all. Needless to say, a new valve, pad and gasket was fitted.
Elsewhere, other inspections found the wires to the wiper board were only held in place by the 'Grace of God': Age and the constant heating and cooling had takin it's toll, the wires were only attached by a couple of strands.
In general taking time to check all the screws for their tightness is also worthwhile.
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Good evening Gentlemen, its been a while and now i feel like getting back to the rebuild of my Mallard, the only thing is, i took off the original circuit board without noting positions of wires.......has anybody a wiring diagram of the said board??
Thanking you all in advance
John
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In preparation for the upcoming oolivesteam members meeting, I have the DTFS ready for action.
Could the commitee update the database with the following details :
certificate : 0583
boiler number : A3_3801
date of manufacture : 12 08
Mark (top-shed)
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As is often the case these days, a ‘mascot’ appears to be a nice little touch generated by organisations and here at the OO live steam club we feel the same.
So here we present for the first time an OOLS Club wagon specifically produced for the OOLS club by British manufacturer Dapol. Dapol special commissions are limited-run model railway products, typically wagons, created for specific retailers, clubs or societies.
These collaborations result in unique liveries and, thanks to the efforts of committee member Jack Lythgoe OO Live Steam Club members can now purchase one of our very own limited edition
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Hi all
It’s been a long time but finally got to running my Silver Link on my home layout!!
Want to test run on my Hornby Rolling Road first but cannot remember what our sadly missed Maurice told me best to connect power to the rear of tender as over static use could create flat spots on the tender wheels.
Can someone send me a diagram or picture as to how this connection is made, I just cannot remember!! It will just save me messing about and maybe getting it wrong.
I’ve only ever run my Silver Link on the club test track.
I know it’s not proto typical but recently bought the beautiful rack of articulated coronation coaches c/w beaver tail unit.
Many many thanks, just didn’t want to mess it up
Happy Days, hope to see you at Gaydon
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This might be duplicative, but I just saw the below post in my mail from Nick Beard:
Currently i am unable to process shipping to the USA due to the enforced tariff situation. I currently have a shipment for Josh in Maryland but am not able to process the shipment due to temporary suspension of royal mail services to the US until further notice. I will update here as soon as changes are made and shipments possible.
I must add my two pennies, cents, whatever. just for further depressive fun. What Trump is doing with his Tariffs has far reaching implications for Americans, never mind the corrosion of relationships between countries in general. My layout needs lots of track sourced in the UK. The prospect of increased costs does not fell me with delight. I can only hope Trump will be hobbled by the next elec…
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Hello,
I got a live steam Silver Link as a birthday present. The seller told me, that this loco was never in use. The problem is, that wheels can be turned only with a little bit of force. I stopped trying immediately, because I didn't want to bend the rods. I don't know what to do. How can I clean the inside of the cylinders, shall I steam it up to get rid of the old oil with hot steam? As I'm a beginner with live steam I don't even know, if I can turn the wheels by hand due to the regulator mechanism.
Here in Germany you can hardly find someone using these wonderful live steam locos. Too fiddly to use they say. I love filling it with water and oil, steam it up and let it go. I saw it only on YouTube.
Can someone please tell me…
Hello Norbert,
I suggest you take the body off as a first step - only two screws. It will help your understanding and hopefully remove the "fear" of what is inside and further dismantling the loco. You can then see what size tools you will need (very small screwdrivers) if you want to go further. It's much better seeing the real thing inside, rather than YouTube videos. If you do want to do more, then I suggest you buy the basic tools from the club shop - they are pretty much essential.
The old oil will have probably stuck the moving parts inside the steam system - they are the pistons inside the cylinders and the rotary valve at the front of the engine. The regulator should be OK as it is all metal. You might get lucky just running steam through, but the cylinder seals will probably need replacing anyway, just because of the time they have been in there. With the right tools and some practice it's only a 10 minute job.....30 minutes for a first time 😀
Good Luck,
David
Hello John, Recently I had to renew the wires from the wiper board so I drew a rough sketch of where they have to go. The red wiper wire goes to the top left of the board and the black one goes to the bottom left. Similarly red motor wire to the top right and the black to the bottom right. Happy soldering! Chris